Rudder shear pin
1. is a 3/8 line that goes thru a fairlead on the back of the rudder
to a cheeck block then to a Harken Cam cleat. When cleated it holds
the rudder down but has no way to release if the rudder hits bottom
or something else in the water.
2. It also has a SS 5/16 bolt that can be used to lock it in the down
postion. Previous owner used the bolt while racing to make sure the
rudder stayed in place. Unfortunately they hit stuff and damaged both
the rudder and transom. The damage is minor but it looks as if the SS
bolt bent and jammed the rudder in a partially up postion which
required
complete dis assembly of the rudder case to loosen the jam.
It would make more sense to me to use some type of shear pin rather
than a SS bolt. It should be such that when it breaks it does so so
cleanly and does not jam up. I found fiberglass rod at the harware
store that seems like it breaks easy enough to prevent damage, but it
splinters rather than a clean break. A harwood dowel fits nicely but
I am afraid it would swell up when wet and be hard to remove.
Here is the question.
Is it reccommended to use the hold down rope to keep the rudder down,
or is a shear pin reccommended, If so what do I use use as a shear
pin?
I just got done re bushing the rudder with Flange bearings from IGUS
which soemone on this list mentioned, ( Thanks) To my suprise they
were about 10 thousands oversized with the intent that the hole they
are inserted is undersized and when pressed in they end up about 3
thousands over. The Corsair drilled holes were not undersized as
needed so I glued the bearings in place with silicone. When I re-
assembeled with the origanol pins the slop was still way too much.
Not only between the bearing and the pins but also between the pins
and the SS brackets that mount on the transom. So I went to my
friend with a lathe and had custom pins made that are 10 thousands
oversized and welded a tab to the top of the pins that gets bolted to
the transom brackets.
Now everything fits tight with almost no slop and the pins will not
spin in the brackets anymore. Next step will be to add a few layers
of glass to the inside of the transom to stop the transom from
flexing, it was either damaged from a grounding or was never beefy
enough in the first place. The backing plates are 1/4 alum and plenty
large so I know they are big enough.
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